Hey guys!
This week covers a bit of everything, from German wine, to our birthday celebration, even spending some time on one of the most important wineries in Lebanon. Enjoy!
Why German Wine Is So Exciting đŠđŞ
Innovation, climate, and a new generation redefining German winemaking
German wine is one of the most exciting categories in the industry right now. A combination of innovative winemaking, a warming climate, and growing consumer interest has pushed it to the top of my mind. Here is why:
Pictured: German Wine Regions. Image by Wine Folly
The innovation happening across several German regions is generating a ton of excitement. Young, ambitious producers are fundamentally rethinking what German wine can be. Moritz Kissinger-Bahr in the Rheinhessen, Lukas Hammelman in the Pfalz, Wasenhaus in Baden, and Johannes Aufricht at Lake Constance are among those working with varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to produce complex, ageable wines that speak to the world's finest benchmarks while maintaining a distinctly German identity.
Pictured: (Left to Right) Wines from Jakob Tennstedt, Julien Renard, Lukas Hammelmann, Max Kilburg, and Mortiz Kissinger-Bahr
I had the privilege of sitting in on a conversation with Johannes just this past week at Leon & Son, where he outlined his philosophy of low yields, long ĂŠlevage, and reductive winemaking for his Chardoanny and AligotĂŠ, an approach drawn from the great wines of Champagne and Burgundy, but firmly rooted in the character of his own region.
Pictured: Johannes Aufricht
Then there is climate change, the less celebratory part of the story. As temperatures rise globally, historically prestigious regions are finding viticulture increasingly difficult, while areas once considered too cold for reliable ripening are now coming into their own. Germany is a prime example. Regions that historically struggled to ripen varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are now doing so with confidence, giving winemakers a broader and more exciting canvas to work with.
Pictured: Rheinhessen Region. Image by Winekeller
Alongside this, consumer interest in German wine continues to grow year on year. Importers like Vom Boden, The German Wine Collective, Source Material Wine and others have played a significant role in bringing serious, innovative producers to wider audiences, and associations like the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingßter (the VDP) have introduced classification systems that lend both structure and prestige to the country's winemaking landscape.
Pictured: VDP and GG Logos. Image by VDP
Taken together, all of this makes German wine one of my favorite categories to drink right now. The quality-to-price ratio is among the best in the world, and the sense that the region is still evolving makes it all the more thrilling to follow.
I am heading to the Rheinhessen this coming week for Karakterre Germany, where I will have the chance to dive even deeper into the region. Stay tuned!
A Birthday Celebration at Marea đ
Returning to a familiar restaurant for an early celebration
My brother and I are celebrating our birthday this week, so we decided to get ahead of it and dine at Marea. In some ways, it felt like an ode to the wine inventory video we filmed there earlier this year, but this time with the added benefit of sitting down and actually experiencing it with our family.
Pictured: Us at Marea
Marea, meaning âtideâ in Italian, reflects both its focus on seafood and its sense of movement and renewal. When it opened in 2009, at the height of a global recession, it was a bold statement of confidence and vision. Founded by chef Michael White as the flagship of the Altamarea Group, the restaurant quickly earned recognition as one of New York Cityâs preeminent fine dining experiences, especially throughout the 2010s when it held two Michelin stars. While its prominence in the press has evolved over time, the quality remains extraordinary, this dinner was easily among the best seafood dinners Iâve ever had.
The dining room carries a sense of occasion, the kitchen presents a seasonally driven seafood menu, and the wine program, led by Francesco Grosso, offers a mainly Italian selection complemented by French and American producers. The Fusilli with octopus and bone marrow, widely regarded as Mareaâs signature dish, was the standout for the night.
Pictured: Marea Dishes
I think our bottle progression for the evening reflected the range the wine program has. We started with Champagne from Matthieu GodmĂŠ-Guillaume, then moved into a private bottling of Greco produced for Marea by Dan Petroski of Massican. From there, we shifted to a Pinot Noir from Littorai, before handing things over to the sommelier, Roberto, for a blind.
Pictured: Our Marea Bottle Lineup
Their pick was a Grenache from Sardinia, a little bit of a mean blind, but welcomed nonetheless. It was a fun game to play with our family mid-meal.
Pictured: VikeVike Barbagia
Overall, the evening reinforced what makes a restaurant like Marea so special. It is not just the technical execution or the reputation, but the ability to create a complete experience, one where the food, the wine, and the hospitality all work in alignment. For a birthday dinner, it delivered exactly what we were hoping for.
Thanks so much to the team at Marea for having us!
Producer Highlight â
One of our favorite parts of wine is the discovery: weâre constantly being put on to new regions, producers, and cuvĂŠes from our friends. Weâll never be able to try EVERY wine, but we want to take a moment to mention some producers that excite us!
Chateau Musar đˇ
Location: Bekaa Valley, Lebanon đ
Pictured: Bekka Valley, Lebanon. Image by Britannica
Chateau Musar was founded in 1930 by 20 year old Gaston Hochar in the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon. Drawing on Lebanon's 6,000-year winemaking history and his exposure to the wines of Bordeaux, Hochar set out to produce wines of nobility and prestige. His work impressed military officers stationed during the French Mandate period, and a wartime friendship with Major Ronald Barton of Château Langoa-Barton cemented the estate's enduring ties to Bordeaux.
Pictured: Chateau Musar Family. Image by Spirited Asia
Gaston's eldest son, Serge, later trained at the University of Oenology in Bordeaux before taking over as winemaker in 1959, spending 18 years perfecting the estate's flagship red. In 1984, Decanter Magazine named him their inaugural Man of the Year, recognizing his commitment to quality throughout Lebanon's civil war (1975â1990). Today, Serge's sons Gaston and Marc run the estate, overseeing operations and commercial affairs respectively.
Pictured: Chateau Musar Bottles. Image by Zaytinya
The vineyards sit at approximately 1,000 metres altitude in the Bekaa Valley, providing ideal conditions for slow, even ripening and the development of complex, age worthy wines. The flagship red is a blend built around Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, with varying proportions of Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Merlot. It is aged for two years in oak barrels and released 5-7 years after harvest. The white, produced in limited quantities of around 600 cases, is made from the indigenous Lebanese varieties Obaideh and Merwah, aged six months in oak, and is noted for its aging potential.
Chateau Musar is widely regarded as one of the world's most distinctive and resilient wine estates. Their wines are uniquely Lebanese in character, shaped by altitude, indigenous varieties, and a true commitment to natural winemaking.
Pictured: Chateau Musar Vines. Image by Chateau Musar
We first encounter these wines at the famous wine bar, Ruffian, in the East Village of Manhattan. There was a table next to us who had ordered a 1997 Chateau Musar, left half the bottle, and the owner of the bar sat down next to us and let us drink the rest with him. Even with very little context about these wines, we could tell the wine was special.
My brother and I opened up a bottle of 2003 Rouge just recently, you can find the video here.
Wine Club Updates đˇ đŚ
Aprilâs shipment is heading out next week, and weâre thrilled about the wines weâre featuring this month, theyâre truly special. Each one has been a favorite of ours and enjoyed many times. We canât wait to hear what you think! If you need any help in the meantime, you can reach out to [email protected] and theyâll help you out!
Not a member yet? You can sign up here:
Thatâs it for this week! Wishing everyone a wonderful start to Spring, itâs finally here, and it couldnât feel more welcome.
Thank so much for reading, and as always, drink responsibly! đĽ