The Pulse of Tbilisi, A Quick Crash Course on Grapes, and a Pioneer of the New Age of Georgian Wine

Author

Super Vino Bros
April 30, 2025

Hey guys!

This week’s newsletter is super exciting! I’m in Georgia (the country, not the state) on a wine tour, traveling through the region to explore the incredible places that make this country so unique. We’ll be diving into the vibrant energy of Tbilisi, covering the wine basics of the country, and discussing how certain winemakers are shaping the future of natural wine in Georgia. Hope you enjoy!

Tbilisi’s Rebellion: Natural Wine and the Fight for Identity 🇬🇪 

How Georgia’s natural wine movement reflects the country’s defiance and embrace of Western ideals

Tbilisi is a city of contradictions, where ancient traditions and modern creativity collide. It’s a place where East and West meet in ways that fuel the city’s dynamic, rebellious energy. For Georgia, this city is not just a capital, but a symbol of resistance. The people here fiercely reject the influences of the past, most notably the Soviet regime, and embrace a future rooted in Western ideals of freedom and self-determination. This defiance runs deep, not just in politics, but in culture, art, and even wine.

Pictured: Tbilisi, Photo by Georgia Today

In many ways, Georgia’s natural wine scene mirrors this counter culture revolution. For decades, the Soviet Union forced cheap, mass-produced wine upon the country, erasing centuries-old traditions in favor of industrial, commercial winemaking. Now, the natural wine movement in Georgia is pushing back. Just as the people of Georgia have spent nearly 35 years carving out their own identity from the former Soviet shadow, natural winemakers are reclaiming lost grape varieties, reviving ancient techniques, and rejecting the standardization of mass-market wine. They’re turning to the Qvevri method, an ancient technique that uses clay vessels for fermentation, and reviving unique Georgian varieties that had been neglected for decades.

Pictured: Iago’s Winery, One of Georgia’s First Natural Winemakers

The spirit of Tbilisi, constantly evolving but always rooted in resistance and pride, perfectly aligns with Georgia’s natural wine movement. Both are acts of defiance: a rejection of industrialization and foreign domination, and a celebration of authenticity and Western ideals. Just as the country fights for independence and self-expression, the natural wine movement reclaims ancient techniques, revives lost grape varieties, and forges an identity that is unapologetically Georgian. In both cases, the people of Georgia are embracing their heritage, redefining their future, and standing proudly on their own terms.

Georgian Wine 101: The Basics 📚️ 

A quick overview of the country’s wine regions, grapes, and winemaking techniques

Wine production in Georgia dates back over 8,000 years, making it one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world. The country's grape varieties are the product of centuries of careful cultivation and a deep respect for the land. The Qvevri fermentation process, still used by many winemakers today, is a testament to Georgia’s unbroken winemaking tradition.

Pictured: Georgian Wine Regions, Photo by Wine Enthusiast

Notable Georgian Wine Regions:

  • Kakheti: Known as the heart of Georgian winemaking, Kakheti is home to many of the country’s most famous grape varieties, including Saperavi and Rkatsiteli.

  • Imereti: A lesser-known but equally important wine region, Imereti produces lighter, more delicate wines, with an emphasis on local varieties like Tsitska and Tsolikouri

Pictured: Georgian Qvevri, Photo by Wander Lush

Key Characteristics of Georgian Grapes:

  • Indigenous Varieties: Over 500 unique grape varieties are grown across Georgia, many of which have been cultivated for centuries. These grapes, like Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Tsitska, and Tsolikouri, produce wines that are rich, complex, and often full of history.

  • Qvevri Fermentation: Many Georgian wines are made using the ancient Qvevri method, where wine is fermented and aged in large clay vessels buried underground. This traditional process imparts a unique texture and character to the wine, making it stand out from other global wine regions.

Pictured: Saperavi, Photo by Advantour

Famous Georgian Grape Varieties:

  • Saperavi: A dark-skinned, deeply tannic red grape known for its rich, intense flavors of dark fruit, spice, and earthy notes. As Georgia’s flagship grape, it produces wines that age beautifully and showcase the depth of the region's terroir. Fun Fact: They’re actually starting to grow this grape in the Finger Lakes of New York

  • Rkatsiteli: One of the oldest white grape varieties in the world, Rkatsiteli has a crisp, fresh profile with bright acidity and notes of citrus, herbs, and green apple. When macerated, it develops additional layers of honey, caramel, and black tea, offering a complex evolution in flavor.

  • Mtsvane: This lesser-known white variety shares similar traits to Rkatsiteli when macerated, offering floral and herbal aromas along with a delicate, fresh palate, making it a versatile addition to Georgian wine.

  • Tsitska & Tsolikouri: Both hailing from Imereti, these white varieties are known for their crisp, fresh profiles and sharp acidity. Tsitska offers floral aromas with hints of citrus and green apple, while Tsolikouri features subtle notes of citrus, apple, and honey. Super easy drinking when made without maceration.

Producer Highlight ⭐️ 

One of our favorite parts of wine is the discovery: we’re constantly being put on to new regions, producers, and cuvées from our friends. We’ll never be able to try EVERY wine, but we want to take a moment to mention some producers that excite us!

Pheasant’s Tears 🍷 

Location: Kakheti, Georgia 📍 

High in the rolling hills of Georgia’s wine region, where history and terroir meet beneath the shadow of the Caucasus Mountains, John Wurdeman crafts wines that are as deeply rooted in the land as they are in the ancient winemaking traditions of the country. An American-born artist, musician, restaurateur, and winemaker, John founded Pheasant’s Tears in 2007. He set out to revive near-extinct native grape varieties and highlight the immense diversity and deep cultural heritage of Georgia’s wine scene.

Pictured: John Wurdeman of Pheasant’s Tears, Photo by Corevino

John’s aim was to create wines that honored the land and traditions they both love. They embraced the ancient Qvevri method, fermenting and aging wines in large clay vessels buried underground, a technique that dates back over 8,000 years. These methods, deeply revered in the winemaking world, are what make Georgia a wine lover’s paradise. But for John, it was never just about preserving tradition; it was about protecting it, collaborating with local farmers to revive native grape varieties and maintain the land’s biodiversity.

Pictured: Pheasant’s Tears, Photo by Cave Pur Jus

Now, over a decade later, Pheasant’s Tears stands as one of Georgia’s premier natural wine estates. The winery’s wines, made from indigenous varietals like Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, and Mtsvane, embody the soul of Georgia’s terroir, complex, vibrant, and full of life. Each bottle is a reflection of the land’s history and the wisdom passed down through generations of winemakers. With a philosophy of minimal intervention and organic farming, Pheasant’s Tears has become a symbol of Georgia’s natural winemaking movement.

Pictured: Me and John Wurdeman

I was lucky enough to visit John earlier this week. He hosted us for a dinner, followed by an impromptu early morning tasting. The visit was unforgettable, and while I’ll dive into that experience at a later time, it really solidified my love for these wines. John is not just a special winemaker, but an even better human, his passion and dedication to Georgia’s winemaking traditions are truly inspiring.

Jenny & Francois imports them into the United States, and I highly recommend picking one up if you see a bottle.

There’s so much to talk about when it comes to this country, from the food to the wine to the people, I could go on and on. The point is, if you ever get the chance, you should definitely visit. It’s an incredibly special place 🇬🇪 

So many more Georgian stories to share, but until then, thanks so much for reading along and, as always, drink responsibly 🥂