The Present and Future Stars of the Jura, Saying Goodbye to Two New York Wine Establishments, and Honoring a Beaujolais Legend

Hey guys!

This week’s newsletter is full of tributes: to the current and future minds shaping the Jura, to two New York wine institutions closing their doors, and to one of the late, great voices in natural wine. Hope you enjoy ⭐️

A Deep Dive into the Present and Future of the Jura 🇫🇷 

Reflecting on a dinner that showcased the current stars of Jura and offered a glimpse into what’s to come

While my week in the Jura was filled with incredible experiences, the dinner on my last night was undoubtedly a huge highlight. I was invited by Jura Wine, a media and events company focused on the region's wines, to a “Current and Future Stars of the Jura” Dinner at a restaurant called Le Comptoir Kokague.

The Jura is home to a new wave of talented winegrowers, many of whom have honed their craft under the guidance of respected veterans like Overnoy, Ganevat, Labet, and Bornard. While I have deep respect for the established voices of the region, I can’t help but feel more excited about the fresh, new perspectives emerging. At the dinner, we had the chance to taste wines from both renowned figures and promising newcomers. Here’s one new, but established voice that’s already making waves and one rising star to keep an eye on:

Current Star: Domaine des Murmures

Emmanuel Lançon of Domaine des Murmures began his estate in 2012 after relocating from Provence, quickly building a small but dedicated following. Following in the footsteps of Overnoy and his pupils, his wines are crafted with a focus on purity and natural concentration. With a tiny vineyard of just about 2 hectares, these wines are rare and highly sought-after, capturing the essence of Jura’s unique terroir.

Future Star: Eric Fimbel & Lydia Houillon

Eric Fimbel and Lydia Houillon began vinifying their first vintage just for family consumption in 2018, and then officially in 2021. They now manage 1.6 hectares spread across a dozen vineyards in Arbois. With a focus on old vines and low yields, they emphasize promoting life in the soil and fostering biodiversity. Guided by the lunar calendar, they craft wines that are truly alive, made without sulfur or other additives. Lydia comes from the Houillon family, known for their deep connection to Jurassic wine, particularly through her uncle, Pierre Overnoy. The family has worked alongside Pierre, and Lydia’s siblings, Adeline and Aurélien, have also made their own mark in the wine world, with Adeline in Pupillin and Aurélien in Ventoux.

Throughout the night, we enjoyed a few more bottles, all aligning with the theme of winemakers who are building upon the Jura’s already esteemed reputation. They’re all listed below if you’re curious! Huge thanks again to the team at Jura Wine for hosting such a fun event.

Saying Goodbye to Two New York Staples 🍷 

A Heartfelt Farewell to Gem Wine and Marlow & Sons

It’s a sad week for New York’s wine scene. Two of my favorites, Gem Wine and Marlow & Sons, are closing their doors. These weren’t just spots to grab a drink; they were experiences. Places where the wine list felt like a love letter to the vines.

Gem Wine offered an exceptional selection, with a list that felt elevated yet never out of reach. It wasn’t just about drinking; it was about discovery, and the team behind it made you feel instantly at home. When I first moved to New York, I was obsessed with finding a cool, cozy wine bar, and Gem Wine was the first place that truly fit that bill. Some of the first natural wines I ever tried in the city came from here, as well as their old location just around the corner (now Ha’s Snack Bar).

Marlow & Sons was the perfect mix of comfort and creativity, a place where you could sink into a corner, sip something amazing, and catch up with an old friend. It had that rare, unforced charm, where every detail was thoughtfully curated to make you feel both at ease and special. While I wasn’t part of its 20 year history until the end, you could definitely feel the impact it had on the neighborhood and its guests. For those who joined us, we hosted our Karakterre Opening Party there this past November. It was the ideal spot to celebrate, surrounded by great wine, good company, and the unmistakable energy of the neighborhood.

Here’s the truth: everything has a life cycle. The spots that shape a neighborhood eventually close. They start as ideas, grow, and when they go, it marks the end of a chapter.

But their impact lingers; memories, shared bottles, conversations stay with you. So thank you to Gem Wine and Marlow & Sons. They’re gone, but their mark on the city will last. 🥂

Producer Highlight ⭐️ 

One of our favorite parts of wine is the discovery: we’re constantly being put on to new regions, producers, and cuvées from our friends. We’ll never be able to try EVERY wine, but we want to take a moment to mention some producers that excite us!

That’s it for this week! It’s been nice getting back into the swing of things in New York. We have a few events coming up in the month of April so stay tuned for updates.

Thanks so much for reading along and, as always, drink responsibly 🥂