The Lyon Wine Scene Playbook, a Classic Lyonnaise Eatery, and an Ardèche Producer Worth the Hype

Hey guys!

The Alpine part of my trip is over, and I’ve now made my way to Lyon. I’ve spent the past few days eating, drinking, and exploring, huge thanks to everyone who sent recommendations! I really appreciate it 🙏 

This week, we’re talking about Lyon’s phenomenal wine scene, a classic and historic eatery in the city, and an Ardèche producer who absolutely lives up to the hype. Hope you enjoy! 🍇🍷

How to Navigate the Lyon Wine Scene 🇫🇷 

I’ve been able to try a few places while in the city, so here are a few recommendations

I haven’t spent much time in major French cities outside of Paris. I’ve been to Angers twice for La Dive, spent less than 24 hours in Marseille, and only briefly passed through Dijon and Strasbourg. So when I had the chance to stay in Lyon for a few days before heading up to Burgundy and Jura, I was pretty excited. To be honest, I didn’t realize how easy it was to get here from the French Alps. Since it's the only major city outside of Geneva with a nearby international airport, they run frequent shuttles, which worked out perfectly for me.

I asked on our Instagram story for Lyon recommendations, and you guys didn’t disappoint! It was probably the most recommendations we’ve received outside of Paris and Barcelona (Thank you so much again). After a few days here, I can confidently say this city is absolutely worth a visit next time you’re in France. Here’s a restaurant, wine bar, and wine shop recommendation:

Restaurant:

• Le Troquet: A lively spot with a seasonal, market-driven menu and an outstanding natural wine list. The food is fantastic, the vibe is warm and laid-back, and the wine selection is full of gems. It’s must-visit for a good meal and even better bottles.

Wine Bar:

• Micro Sillon: A vinyl-loving, wine-lover’s dream, blending an eclectic natural wine selection with a warm, music-filled atmosphere. Honestly, it’s the kind of wine bar I’d love to open myself. When we visited, a French disco party was in full swing, but there was also a quieter space in the back for those who wanted to sit and eat. We even got to try wines from Les Chais du Port de la Lune, a Bordeaux winemaker who was pouring that night. Overall, an amazing time.

Wine Shop:

• Antic Wine: Another heavily recommended spot. It might seem like a pretty basic, unassuming wine shop at first glance, but if you head downstairs, you’ll find yourself in what feels like a medieval cave. The underground cellar is a stunning, stone-walled space packed with incredible bottles: everything from cult natural producers to classic French gems. It’s the kind of place where you could easily spend hours discovering something new, and if you get the chance, it’s an experience in itself.

There’s obviously a ton more so if you want the full list, check out our highlights section pinned to our Instagram! ✅ 

The Bouchon: A Lyonnaise Staple 🐷 

A bouchon in Lyon is a traditional type of restaurant that serves hearty, home-style Lyonnaise cuisine in a casual, convivial setting. Bouchons are about rustic, comforting dishes, generous portions, and a lively, unpretentious atmosphere.

Key Characteristics of a Bouchon:

• Hearty, Meat-Centric Cuisine: Lyonnaise food is heavily influenced by pork-based dishes. Expect things like andouillette (tripe sausage), quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings in a creamy sauce), tablier de sapeur (breaded and fried tripe), and gras double (tripe stew).

• Simple, Cozy Atmosphere: Many bouchons have red-checkered tablecloths, close-set wooden tables, and vintage decor that feels like stepping into someone’s kitchen.

• Lively and Social Vibe: These spots are known for their friendly, informal service. It's common for the owner or chef to chat with guests, and meals are often long, relaxed, and full of conversation.

• Wines from the Region: A bouchon will always have a solid selection of Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône wines, usually served in pot lyonnais, a short, squat bottle holding 46cl (about two-thirds of a standard bottle).

History of the Bouchon:

Bouchons date back to the 17th and 18th centuries, originally run by les Mères Lyonnaises: female cooks who left aristocratic homes to open small restaurants. They catered to the city’s silk workers, who needed filling meals after long shifts.

A Few Famous Bouchons in Lyon:

• Le Café Des Fédérations – A classic, with a lively atmosphere.

• Café Comptoir Abel – One of the oldest bouchons, known for quenelles.

• Daniel et Denise – Run by a French celebrity chef, but still very much a bouchon.

• Restaurant Le Musée – Highly, highly recommended to us by a few of you.

I was in Lyon with a friend and we went to Le Café Des Fédérations and absolutely loved it! If you're ever in town, a bouchon is a must 🍽️ 

Producer Highlight ⭐️ 

One of our favorite parts of wine is the discovery: we’re constantly being put on to new regions, producers, and cuvées from our friends. We’ll never be able to try EVERY wine, but we want to take a moment to mention some producers that excite us!

That’s all for now! Heading to Burgundy and the Jura for the last part of my trip. Super excited to give you guys updates!

Until then, thanks so much for reading along and, as always, drink responsibly 🥂