Germany’s Annual Wine Auction, a Wine Key Obsession, and a True Visionary in American Wine

Hey guys!

From the cellars of Germany to the hills of Vermont, this week’s stories celebrate the people and details that keep wine endlessly interesting. We’re covering the historic VDP auction, my ever-growing wine key collection, and one of the most inspiring producers in the U.S. Hope you enjoy 🤙

A closer look at the VDP’s yearly Versteigerung and why it remains one of the most fascinating events in the wine world.

One of the most unique events in the German wine world is happening this week, the annual VDP Wine Auction, or Versteigerung, as it’s called in Germany. Every Fall, a handful of Germany’s top growers gather to release special, small-production wines made from their best barrels. While the word “auction” might conjure images of tuxedos, gavels, and obscene price tags, the reality is far more approachable. Many of the wines are surprisingly affordable, sometimes just 20 to 40 euros a bottle, and available only through this process. It’s a celebration not of luxury, but of craftsmanship and tradition.

The origins of the German wine auctions date back to the mid-19th century, when small family growers needed a way to sell their wines directly (and fairly) to merchants and collectors. Back then, wine was sold by the barrel, and each barrel carried its own character. Even today, with all our technology and scientific precision, no one can fully explain why one barrel might shine brighter than another. That mystery, that sense of living variation, is what the auctions are designed to honor. Rather than blending these barrels into a single wine, growers showcase their most distinctive lots, bottlings that tell a singular story of a vineyard, a vintage, and a moment in time.

I learned about all this from Stephen Bitterolf, founder of Vom Boden, one of the leading importers of German wine in the United States and a passionate advocate for the winemaking tradition of the country. For nearly a decade, his team has been helping collectors and enthusiasts in the U.S. participate in these auctions, tasting nearly every wine on offer and uncovering not just the trophies but also the hidden gems.

And that’s really the heart of it; the German wine auctions aren’t about commerce or spectacle, they’re about preserving an old-world belief that nature still has the final say. In a world obsessed with efficiency and uniformity, this auction stands proudly as a celebration of the unrepeatable.

For details on this year’s auctions, including the newly released auction catalogs, bidding guidelines, and other information, reach out to [email protected]. The 2025 auctions will take place on Thursday, November 6th (Bernkasteler Ring), Friday, November 7th (VDP Mosel), and Saturday, November 8th (VDP Nahe and Rheinhessen).

A personal ode to the humble corkscrew; part souvenir, part time capsule.

I’ll admit it, I’m a bit of a hoarder when it comes to wine stuff. Beyond the collection of bottles in my small wine fridge waiting for the right occasion (and the empty ones I can’t bring myself to toss because of the memories they hold), I’ve also got drawers full of corks and wine stickers. But my favorite collection, by far, is my growing lineup of wine keys, also known as wine openers or corkscrews, depending on who you ask.

It started casually, maybe sometime early last year, when I noticed that the small pile of wine keys I’d accumulated had begun to form a kind of accidental rainbow. Once I saw that, I couldn’t unsee it, and naturally, I became obsessed with completing it. Since then, I’ve made it a ritual: picking up a new one from a wine bar I love, a festival tasting, or a friend’s restaurant. They’re simple little objects, but each one carries a place, a night, a conversation.

Most of mine are the classic kind, the sturdy, double-hinged restaurant wine key you can pick up for a few bucks online. But what makes the collection special isn’t the price or the brand; it’s the story behind each one. Over time, they’ve started to feel like a map; a record of all the places I’ve opened bottles, poured glasses, and shared wine with friends.

That said, I’ve come across a few higher-end openers that really impressed me. If you’re in the mood to splurge a bit, these are worth exploring:

Laguiole Corkscrew:

Craighill Wine Key:

Cartailler Deluc Corkscrew:

Opinel Knife/Wine Opener/Bottle Opener:

And just to be clear, you absolutely don’t need anything fancy to open a bottle of wine. I still reach for my trusty $5 model almost every single time:

One of our favorite parts of wine is the discovery: we’re constantly being put on to new regions, producers, and cuvées from our friends. We’ll never be able to try EVERY wine, but we want to take a moment to mention some producers that excite us!

Hope everyone’s received their October wines by now! Can’t wait to hear what you think of them. If you have any questions or run into any issues, just reach out to [email protected] and they’ll help you out!

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That’s it for today! Whether it’s an auction abroad or a bottle at home, every part of the wine world adds to the larger conversation.

Thank so much for reading, and as always, drink responsibly! 🥂