Burgundy's New Guard, a Mercurey Tasting Experiment, and the Producer Everyone’s Whispering About

Hey guys!

This week, we’re diving into Burgundy, but not the kind that usually comes to mind. I used to think of Burgundy as inaccessible, tucked away in private cellars or traded through fancy auction sites. And in many ways, it still is. But there’s a new wave of small-scale and micro-négociant producers from around the world who’ve found their way to Burgundy and are carving out space on their own terms.

So here’s a look at Burgundy’s new guard, a standout tasting experience I had while I was there, and a producer who’s helping lead the charge.

A New Age in Burgundy 🇫🇷 

How a cohort of young voices is making the region accessible and exciting again

Burgundy is changing, not in a loud, headline-grabbing way, but quietly, in the cracks, the cellars, and along the lesser-known slopes. A new wave of winemakers is flipping the script on what it means to make wine in one of the world’s most tradition-bound regions.

Jonathan Purcell of Vin Noé, Bastian Wolber, Icy Liu, Clarisse de Suremain, Domaine Dandelion, Maison Skyaasen, Chanterêves, among several others, are part of this shift.

They’re not chasing Grand Cru labels or playing the prestige game. They’re focused on making something honest: wines that reflect place, intention, and a genuine sense of care. Some own a small number of vines, others lease modest parcels, and many rely entirely on purchased fruit. Most make just a few barrels at a time, keeping things small, personal, and deeply hands-on.

In Burgundy, where most of the land is held by legacy families and fruit prices are sky-high, these winemakers have to get creative. And that’s exactly what makes their work so exciting. It’s scrappy. It’s sincere. And it’s the most exciting thing happening in Burgundy right now.

A Mercurey Tasting Experiment 🍇 

Three young vignerons, One plot of Pinot Noir, and a glimpse into the region’s next chapter.

When I visited France last month, I found myself with a free day and no real plan before heading to the Jura. So a friend and I decided to make the most of it and head to Burgundy. We filled the day with visits to some of the region’s rising stars: Icy Liu, Jonathan Purcell of Vin Noé, and Bastian Wolber. All young, all micro-négociants, and all making some of the most exciting wine in Burgundy right now.

The thing about négociants is this: they don’t own vineyards. Most source grapes from growers and some lease small parcels. It’s really about working with what they can get their hands on. This model allows for flexibility and creativity, and it’s opened the door for fresh voices in a region long defined by exclusivity and steep barriers to entry.

In 2023, a grower in Mercurey, a village in Burgundy, had an unusually large amount of Pinot Noir to sell. All three of the winemakers we visited managed to get their hands on some, and they each made something unique with it.

Over the course of the day, we tasted three different barrel samples of the same Mercurey Pinot Noir, one with Icy in the morning, one with Jonathan in the afternoon, and one with Bastian in the evening, each as distinctive as the winemaker behind it. Same vineyard, same vintage, yet wildly different results.

Icy Liu’s version was electric, bright red fruit, wild herbs, a bit of edge. It had energy. Not chaotic, but raw in a way that demanded your attention. She trained under Burgundy stars Chanterêves, and you can absolutely taste the influence.

Jonathan’s take under the Vin Noé label was earthier and deeper: dark fruit, purple flowers, forest floor, and a subtle smokiness with quiet complexity. It perfectly personified his presence: serious, soft-spoken, and soulful.

Bastian Wolber’s was elegant, everything in balance. Fine tannins, pure fruit, and a precision that felt almost architectural. The wine was focused and thoughtful, yet carried a brightness that mirrored Bastian himself: light-hearted and always smiling.

Tasting these three wines side by side, same fruit, different hands, was one of the coolest tasting experiences I’ve had in a while. It reminded me that terroir isn’t just soil and slope. It’s also personality, perspective, and philosophy.

But the wines weren’t only part of it. What stuck with me just as much was the sense of community. These winemakers aren’t competitors, they’re friends. They trade notes, share barrels, lend each other gear. They’re all figuring it out together, trying to make their dream of becoming Burgundian winemakers a reality in a region that doesn’t exactly roll out the red carpet for newcomers.

We got to be right in the middle of it, tasting the same story told three different ways. Burgundy might be built on legacy, but this day felt like a glimpse into the future.

Producer Highlight ⭐️ 

One of our favorite parts of wine is the discovery: we’re constantly being put on to new regions, producers, and cuvées from our friends. We’ll never be able to try EVERY wine, but we want to take a moment to mention some producers that excite us!

One last thing and completely unrelated to Burgundy: There’s a really cool Italian wine festival happening in New York this Saturday! It’s called Convivio del Vino, and they’ll be pouring a ton of fantastic wine from all over Italy. If you’re interested in attending, the link for tickets with a 10% discount is below! 🇮🇹 

That’s it for this week, thanks so much for all the support so far!

I’m heading to Georgia (the country, not the state) this Saturday for a wine tour and can’t wait to share the journey with you 🇬🇪

Also, we’re dropping merch very soon. Newsletter subscribers will get first dibs, so keep an eye out over the next couple of weeks 👀

Thanks so much for reading, and as always, drink responsibly 🥂